Finding a more or less happy entrepreneur in Palestine these days is not an easy task, especially in Hebron, but it can be achieved. Take Hirbawi Textiles , situated on a slope overlooking the town that used to be an important regional center of trade. The presence of Jewish settlers has mutilated it long since, transforming a major part of the traditional souk into a no-go area for Palestinians - but let's not go into that sad story again, it's been told many times. Far less known is how the only factory in Palestine that manufactures the kufiyeh - yes, the iconic Palestinian chequered scarf, sported by the likes of Sting and David Beckham in the past decade - has survived. Founded in 1961, the company fell on hard times in the nineties, but almost miraculously managed to stay in business. On entering the premises, it's hard not to instantly fall in love with the 16 Suzuki looms of the factory. They look ancient, but nonetheless seem in good shape, and they produce an